Where eagles dare...

Bird watching in Oman
Feb 15, BW
If you want to see the happiest man on earth – come to Al Ansab lagoon. You will find him bent over a spotting scope aimed at some faraway objects. You might wonder why this man, who is doubled up on this contraption for hours, suddenly exults. You wonder why he suddenly throws his hands up in the air and does a little jig as though he has stumbled on something unique.

What is it, you wonder, as you close in on him? The man in a little hat tries to tell you why he is suddenly so excited, but you don’t understand. He gestures to the contraption through which he is looking at the lagoon and you try to peer into it and see naught.

It is a rare bird, the man happily announces and you wonder what was all the excitement about…Why was he excited at spotting a ‘bird’?

These bird watchers are crazy, you mutter under your breath, but, when they unveil their passion for bird watching, you realise that it is not just that. You realise that it is you who needs to be educated: Bird watching is more than just a free man’s pastime/hobby, or just a boring activity – it is a passionate love for not just birds, but environment, for this ground that we step on...for life.

Bird watching could easily give man an insight into the intrinsic value of nature, its spiritual, aesthetic, emotional and recreational values which are as important as its economic value.

The more you learn, the more you understand that you need more and more bird watchers in this world. These are the quiet, yet content, sentinels of mother earth and all the natural treasures it has; these are the type of people in whose hands the future of environment lies.

Changing bird behaviour indicates that the climate is changing already, and it is known that birds are an excellent early warning system to what is happening to climate.

Various studies have highlighted the impact of climate change on the survival, migration and reproduction of different bird species.


Bird watchers paradise
It was not easy to spot even a duck. We were not accustomed to viewing the world through a looking glass. Our inexperienced eyes blundered on the angled scope, and we tried in vain to position the optic the way we wanted it.
Catherine de Reynier fidgeted from the background. She was generous enough to allow us to view through her scope and even explained how, but, we were only seeing spots.
We were at the bird watching perch at Al Ansab lagoon recently along with a group of Swiss bird watchers who were keenly peering through their scopes and binoculars at the feathery activity in the lagoon, some distance away.

It took a while to get our eyes adjusted to the scope and we finally sighted up close and clear some ducks, purple herons and the like in the lagoon. We were there thanks to an invitation from Seyad Farook, ophiologist/field herpetologist at the Sultan Qaboos University (SQU).
Farook was invited by Peter Wiprächtiger, who headed the Swiss bird watching group to Oman, to highlight some of the snakes of Oman.

Bird watchers feel up snakes
Farook entertained the Swiss guests with a variety of his snakes in the natural settings and for some moments, everyone forgot about the birds and began busily clicking at the Saw Scaled Viper, Puff Adder, the Ball Python (Royal Python), Corn Snake and other snakes.

Farook lectured on the types of snakes, how to differentiate the venomous from the non venomous and offered them great copy as well as an opportunity to take some close shots of the venomous creatures. “These snakes gave a chance for some of them to feel a snake for the first time and also understand the morphological characteristic and some of their behaviour,“ Farook said.

But soon, the flapping in the background turned the attention of the Swiss guests back to the winged creatures in the lagoon and they got busy with their scopes and binoculars.

One with nature
Catherine has been bird watching for the last eight years only, she says. But, she is already a mini-veteran bird watcher. “I find it quite calming. There you are, all alone with nature, quietly watching some innocent birds. You see their movements, their colours, their plumes and the more you watch, you get an insight into their behaviours. It is like being in a forest, alive and one with nature,” she told Black & White.

She dismisses the question on how one could spend so much time just watching birds with a retort: “You watch TV, don’t you? So many people spend so much time just viewing the idiot box. Isn’t that boring?
“But, bird watching is never boring, because the birds are never boring. They are always active and the migratory birds are really unique – in the sense, their sense of direction is amazing.
“And Oman is a fascinating spot for bird watchers. I have been here for just four days, and I realise already that this country is a bird watcher’s paradise.”

Although Catherine claimed that she was not in the major league of bird watchers, she still documented the birds she sighted. “Here, we saw plenty of Moor Hens. I totally loved the Red-wattled Plover. I also saw many Shovellers and Black-winged Stilts and also some eagles (but eagles are mostly seen in November).”,

Bird watching is for nature lovers
The older they were, the bigger the passion. Peter Wiprachtiger, a retired teacher, but now a fulltime tour organiser and avid bird watcher, who was bringing Swiss bird watchers for the third time to Oman maybe one of the oldest member present, but seemed to be one of the most passionate and sprightly bird watcher in the group. “I got into bird watching when I was just 14 – must have been the youngest one then,” Peter tells us, explaining with a cheeky grin that it was a good 50 years back.
But he dismisses the query whether bird watching was a hobby for the elderly, with a wave of his hand. “It is for people who are in love with nature; it is for people who want to live a simple life but in close contact with nature.
“I have been bird watching for the last 50 years and I still feel young. Bird watching keeps you young and alive as you are always on your feet and moving. It keeps you physically fit because you do a lot of trekking and are out there in the great outdoors.
“It is not an expensive hobby. Of course, you require good equipment, but most importantly, good eyes and ears – you watch and you listen!”
Peter noted that the younger generation was into bird watching, but unlike them, the youngsters were keen to pursue records (highest number of species in a day) than actually spend more time on a particular bird. “But, I have no complaints –at least, these young bird watchers are still in touch with nature.”
He says a good number of bird watchers existed in Switzerland, however, he feels that the English were more into it. “I read somewhere that every third Englishman is a bird watcher.”
Peter, who had, along with his wife, visited Oman as a tourist, some five years back not only fell in love with the country, but was also surprised by the great number of bird species he saw here. “Oman offers excellent bird watching opportunities. Oman is on the path of two migratory routes from the Asiatic towards Africa and vice versa, which is why we see a great variety of birds here at different seasons.
“It is imperative that all countries should preserve and protect its nature and its live treasures and Oman is one country, which has this on the highest priority list!” He promised us he would be back soon, with yet another troupe of bird watchers.


Save the planet
Bird watching is not a hobby or a sport of just international visitors to Oman. The Sultanate also has a growing number of Omani and resident bird watchers whose passion for watching birds was equally high. One of the best known names among the Omani fraternity is Hamed Khalfan Al Wardi, who is best known for his videos on birds and wildlife in Oman (Birds of Northern Oman, Birds of Dhofar and Wildlife of Oman), also gave us some details on the finer points of bird watching at the same time exhorting young Omanis to take up this hobby, set to give them mental and physical stimulation.

Capital of Egyptian eagles
While Oman is a migratory destination for eagles and vultures, the Sultanate is considered to be the capital of Egyptian eagles.
“Steppe, Greater Spotted, and Imperial eagles from Central Asia are quite commonly seen here. Tawny eagles are also found, as well as Lappet-Faced vultures, Egyptian vultures and brown-necked ravens.

“From winter onwards, it is the time of eagles and vultures. On hot days, you can see 25 to 30 Steppe eagles sitting next to each other, drinking water from one of the ponds in Al Ansab. In fact, the whole area must be one of the best for large birds of prey,” Hamed Al Wardi said.
Hamed considers Oman to be an ideal arena for bird watching. “There are no tall trees, the landscape is wide and open, and this facilitates good and open views.”
“Oman, as a country, can boast of its flora and fauna. And I have been fortunate to film three good videos on birds and wildlife of Oman.
“I took a video on the birds of Northern Oman, Birds of Oman and on the Wild Life of Oman. The Eriksen (Hanne and Jens) couple actually inspired me to venture out to capture the birds and wildlife on video. Working with Oman TV gave me the opportunity too. I am proud to say that the English version of my films was screened at the meeting of Ornithological Society of the Middle East in London and I was given a letter of appreciation. It is an honour for me because the society is considered to be the elite club of all bird watchers. The films were also relayed by Kuwaiti television and some other channels.”

But, Hamed lamented that he was not entirely successful in passing his bird watching enthusiasm or environment loving nature to the young generation of Omanis. “And, not many know about the bird species in Oman. Today very few people have the time or inclination to pause or stop by a bird.
“The younger Omani generation does not have time for the nature, the birds, and the wild life any more. And it pains me.
“We should, as a rule, know our planet earth, its living beings. It is easier to be in touch than at a later stage take up placard to fight to save mother earth. Prevention is better than cure. I would only say, love nature, stop and stare at it, enjoy, listen and become one with it.
This will help us save the planet earth.”


The wetland man/The bird whisperer
As we were speaking to the bird watchers, a man was standing quietly in the corner, intensely watching the wetlands. Suddenly, he broke through the silence with a “Shhhh…they will be here anytime…”
Dominic Harmer, wetland manager (Haya Water) looked at his watch. “It is 6pm…the Sandgrouses will be here any moment. These birds come only when darkness have fallen. Then, they seem to drop straight out of the sky.”
By this time, there was a swarm of them – not the birds, but mosquito type insects which whirred above our heads. “Don’t worry, they are harmless,” Dominic said, waving them away. “These insects are favourites of Nightjars.”

Dominic, a member of the RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds), the largest wildlife conservation organisation in Europe with over one million members, has not completed a year yet at Al Ansab, but he is a thorough man with extensive knowledge of birds, the wetland and well, nature.


Oman, a bird watching destination
“Oman is on the migratory path of the birds. Every year millions of birds migrate to Oman as a land bridge between Asia and Africa. Birds in Oman ranged from the little green bee-eater to the huge lappet faced vulture. There are almost 450 plus different species of birds in Oman for you to spot,” he said reeling off many bird names: Indian Rollers, Purple Sunbird, little Green Bee Eater, Turtle Dove, Hoopoe, Black Redstart, Wheat Eater, Fly Catcher, Shrike, Sand Grouse, Warbler, Egret, Stork, Flamingo, Harrier, Kestrel, Osprey, Falcon, Sandpiper, Egyptian vulture, Lappet Faced vulture, Kingfisher, Cuckoos…
“Over 450 species of birds have been identified in Oman: some are passage migrants; some are residents while others are breeding visitors. There are just over 85 resident birds living in Oman all year round, while the majority of the ‘migratory’ birds visit the country only at certain times of the year.
In Muscat, Indian Rollers, Little Green Bee-eaters, Yellow-Vented Bulbuls, Graceful Prinias and the Purple Sunbirds can be seen at any time of the year. Muscat is also one of the best places in the world to study the Steppe Eagle.”

Eagles galore
According to Dominic, the species most commonly seen around Muscat are Steppe Eagle, Great Spotted Eagle and Imperial Eagle. “These birds are passage migrants and winter visitors. From my experience over the last two winters November has been the most exciting time to see these birds visiting Al Ansab wetland. Higher concentrations can been seen where additional food sources are available such as Al Amerat waste disposal site. Up to 100 eagles have been reported at this site.

Brought in for a meaningful purpose
Working in the ecological field is gratifying because you can contribute to the protection and promotion of essential ecological structures necessary for our continued existence, says Dominic. “Nature conservation is a must for every nation. I am glad to be part of the Haya team and I find this job very challenging.
Haya Water is responsible for the protection and future development of the area as a nature reserve and environmental education centre.
Oman is a great country and the coming years will be very crucial for the tourism sector. The Ceo of Haya is a big nature lover and is quite passionate of nature and protecting wildlife and I was brought in here for this meaningful purpose.

“There is not much public awareness here about sewage and waste water treatment. Mass believe it is just about dumping garbage. No, it is all about treatment of sewage and waste disposal.
“The creation of Al Ansab lagoon is for the purpose of nature conservation. It is about creating the right environment, the right habitat for the wildlife. And when it is all done, nature has its own way of bringing in the wildlife. Migration is one such process.
As part of creating awareness, with the support of Professor Victor from the SQU, we shortlisted some Omani students of biology and brought them here for hands on experience. And out of the 10 students we have shortlisted two students Zarhan and Manal who will be joining us soon in our endeavour.
We hope to bring in new audiences too. Bird watching is a great hobby with loads of health benefits. It is not about being still in a place, it is about listening, watching learning. When you are out in the nature, you walk a lot, you stand, and you are physically and mentally active. You are closer to nature, your mind is stimulated. You will be healthy and fit.”
Al Ansab lagoon project, a man made wetland, will be fully operational in another three-year period and will be a spot for bird watchers, international and locals. “We are talking to the Ministry of Tourism and education and we hope to promote this amongst school children. The young ones will learn much more from nature than their books. It will be a different experience for them. There will be full- fledged discovery centre and an environment play area coming up soon,” Dominic said.

Never had a bad day in my job!
“When you love your job, you do it well. If your job is following and protecting the nature, it is all the more fulfilling. At a very young age, I fell in love with nature and wanted to get in to a lifelong commitment with it… here I am. My job is all about appreciating the nature; it is being alive every single day. And in this job, there are no bad days!

Birds, your first view to nature
“Birds are fascinating creatures that exist nearly everywhere on the planet; in every climate imaginable from Antarctic snows to the burning desert. A bird is your first look at the nature, colourful feathers, live and moving… and yes, Bird watching is a fantastic hobby. It, in many ways, is similar to hunting; only in this instance you do your shooting with a pair of binoculars, perhaps even a camera, a bird identification book, a notebook and pencil. If more and more people started bird watching, the world would be a prettier, better place to live in…” Dominic noted.

By adarsh Madhavan and Priya Arunkumar, Photos Najib Al balushi