Autism cannot speak, let us

BW may 21, 2010
“There are ‘10,000’ autistic children in Oman…”
Not true.
That was just to get your attention.
We have to confess that we have no clue about the exact number of autistic children in the Sultanate and no idea of what to tell a parent with an autistic child/children or where to advice parents to go to if they have an autistic child.
If it was about physical disability, there is the Oman Association for the Disabled. If it is about cancer, there is the Oman Cancer Association…in short, for most diseases there would either be a cure, or at least an association or a centre to go to, but when it comes to autism, you are met with a brick wall.
Are you a parent with an autistic child or children? Then, you must have either taken them to the Centre for Special Education, the Creative Learning Centre, the Association for the Welfare of Handicapped Children, etc.
Or, perhaps, you would have taken them to the only child psychiatric clinic at the Sultan Qaboos University Hospital (SQUH) for the whole of Oman.

No centre
Now, ask yourself whether there is one dedicated centre for autism or whether there is an association for autistic children/adults, and you are met with a ready answer ‘no’. There is nothing of that sort.

Which is why Black & White decided to go ahead and organise a charity cum Sudoku event, which we hope will bring about much needed awareness on autism in Oman and perhaps provide a stepping stone for starting a centre for autism in Oman.

Why Sudoku?
Why NOT Sudoku? Sudoku is about numbers and if one may have noticed, autism has also its relevance in numbers and so we thought let the Sudoku lovers unscramble the numbers in their head on to the sheets and at the same time, make an event that shed light on the plight of the autistic in Oman and also take this disease from the shadows and into the light, even limelight, if needed.

Miracle man
And what best way to do that than to rope in the man, that extraordinary human being, George Widener, an autistic savant, who will inspire many to climb over the challenges that face them today, like he has done many years back. George, who despite being autistic, is today a man with incredible memory talents and an exceptional artist. George’s story is of a young man with autism and a miracle. He has led a life of anything but the ordinary. Events and people in his life, beyond his ability to understand them, forced him early in life to consider the subconscious and alternative solutions. George was born in Cincinnati, Ohio in 1962. He struggled successfully to overcome a tough inner city childhood and joined the American military at 17. He has visited many countries and been in several war torn areas. He has always had a love of drawing and turned to art seriously after being significantly influenced by his multicultural experiences. Completely self taught for a number of years, today, he is a top selling artist. He tells us how he was once struggling and lived on the streets several times, in Dallas, London, Amsterdam… But today, world famous ‘rock stars’ sometimes buy his work and invite him to their mansions in Europe and he gets to take private tours of the vaults of museums.
George has been an inspiration to many who have heard him speak and he is bound to move the autistic here, their families and perhaps stimulate even a campaign that will perhaps, one day, bring about a change in the sad situation of the autistic in Oman.
We think George will be that one shining star that will lead all of us through the confusing maze of autism.

Autistic savant George Widener's interview

Emphasise your strengths, rather than correct weaknesses
What would you say if someone told you that you are going to be 35 years, 456, 789 minutes old in 2014 and that your birthday is going to be on a Thursday by just hearing your birth date? You might freak out!
You may have every reason to, especially when you get to know about the exceptional autistic George Widener, a prodigious savant with multiple talents.
In 2004 he easily defeated a former NASA scientist ("What day of the week will June 25th be in the year 47,253?”) who was using paper, pencil, and formulas (and eventually a laptop computer) in a 'contest' shown on a Japanese TV science documentary.
Despite being autistic, progress has been made in George's life by emphasising his strengths rather than trying to 'correct' his weaknesses. All his life George has made various drawings and had numbers in his head and so this is what he focuses on today versus trying to have some career with broader interests. He is a lightning calendar calculator with a seemingly unlimited range.
He also has instant recall of thousands of historical trivia, facts, world and US census figures ("Population of Boston, Mass is 589,141 in last census") that has had some sort of interest to him. Mention the 'Powers of Two' to him and he might reel them off in rapid fire progression up to 20 digits (1, 2, 4....1073741824, 2147483648....) or so. George graduated from college at age 37 while in a special education programme for learning disabled persons at the University of Tennessee at Knoxville, eventually earning a general Liberal Arts degree, Cum Laude.
George has drawn all his life and his early artwork was of a more stereotyped savant style, a sort of recording of something he was looking at or had seen in the past. He drew landscapes and portraits. His very talented draughtsmanship gives him a range of technical abilities. He has had to work to overcome his literal nature and visual memory to create original artwork. George's emergence as an expressive, original artist came as he began to place his revered numbers, calculations, calendars, facts, machine parts, and letters into works on found paper, often napkins.
In this interview with the Black & White, George speaks about the simple side of his otherwise exceptional and unusual life.
Excerpts:
You are called a ‘prodigious savant’ with ‘outstanding computational ability’ and a ‘date genius’… do these tags mean anything to you? How do you feel about it?I know it is talking about my fascination with calendars and numbers associated with them. I have always been able to see calendar numbers in my head. I'm proud that I can do them, because I had some learning problems in other ways. I did do something original with dates when I blended them with 'Magic Squares' but I don't look in the mirror too long. I have work to do!
Who is George Widener?
George Widener is a talented self-taught working artist who can draw in a multitude of styles, often from memory. Shows his work in galleries and museums on occasion. Is diagnosed with 'Aspergers Syndrome', a mild form of autism. Had several 'low functioning' autistic people in his family.
Give us an idea of a day in the life of George Widener?
These days I am quite busy with work so my time revolves around that. I usually get up, have breakfast, and then go to the library. I work until the afternoon, then come home and go for a walk in the forest near my home. I like to read books in the evening. I am presently reading about archeology.
Do you lead an interesting life?
Well, I was once struggling and lived on the streets several times, in Dallas, London, Amsterdam... today world famous 'rock stars' sometimes buy my work and invite me to their mansions in Europe. I get to take private tours of the vaults of museums. So yes, you could say I am having an interesting life! But I've always been a positive person I think.
What do you love; what do you hate?
I love to draw. Hate is a strong word, but I can't stand being laughed at, or ridiculed, like I was sometimes when I was younger. That doesn't happen much anymore.
What do you fear? Do you fear anything?
I am afraid of certain social events people do because I can't seem to understand them. I am sensitive to sudden noises and light.
Have you ever thought of what you would have been without autism?
No, I haven't. I think I am lucky that I am not a 'lower functioning' person because then someone would have to take care of me all the time.
What is the single-most thing you love or hate about being autistic?
I think as a high-functioning autistic person gets older, they can really become a productive expert sometimes in the subject that they are interested in.
Do you miss or regret anything?
No.
What are you inspired by?
I was deeply inspired by Kim Peek, who had the world's most amazing memory, whom I met and knew and who recently passed away. Kim was the model for the movie 'The Rain Man' and was a one of a kind person. I will never, ever, forget him.
What are your dreams? What do you want to achieve?
I want to achieve a great work of art someday. I know I can do it. But it takes a lot of work and patience.
What can you tell or advice the autistic (both children and adults) in Oman?
I think it is good if you can find what you are good at, in some type of work or activity, and find some happiness with it.
What do numbers mean to you?
Numbers are an activity that I do. This year I turned 17, 533 days old on a Monday and I keep track of these things.
Do you Sudoku?
I don't Sudoku, but am going to check it out to see if I can link it to calendars.

Interview with Dr Yahya Al Farsi

An Omani Einstein or an Omani Bill Gates is waiting to be discovered
There is bound to be a genius out there among the autistic children in Oman. “Maybe an Omani Einstein or an Omani Bill Gates,” says Dr Yahya M Al Farsi, assistant professor of epidemiology and public health, College of Medicine and Health Sciences, Sultan Qaboos University (SQU). And he is not laughing.
He is dead serious. “History says that Einstein was autistic and so was Bill Gates. Perhaps, we could have a genius out there, waiting to be discovered,” Dr Yahya continued in the same vein in this interview with Black & White.
And the ones who are going to stumble on these geniuses are the teachers, counsellors, the caregivers etc. So, it was imperative that this lot are properly trained and have enough qualifications to understand and yes, even discover such talent, says Dr Yahya, who along with other dedicated SQU researchers have conducted (not concluded) the first-ever research on autism in Oman.
“Most of the developmental years are spent at school. It is very important that the teachers who spent the maximum time with the kids should know the symptoms of autism spectrum disorders (ASD) and report. During our research, no data was obtained from teachers because of the absence of a periodic record-based surveillance system for the behaviour of the children in Omani schools. Implementing such a system could be expected to result in the diagnosis of additional ASD cases.
“The peak prevalence is eight years and it’s the school going period. If we don’t implement including qualified, trained teachers/counsellors at schools, we are going to lose out in the long run. Let us look at the big picture. History says many big names were autistic. Let us jointly find that out too!”
Autism can’t speak – let us speak for it
Dr Yahya explained to us how he got into doing research on autism in Oman. “Everybody has some sort of a learning experience in their lives, probably one or more that will change their lives drastically. I have had many such experiences and one on a personal level with family as far as autism was concerned. This put me on the autism track.
Besides this, I have had the chance to interact with many families where autism was prevalent. Those were very humbling experiences that underlined the philosophies of my life.
The family members showed such level of humbleness, nobility and love that made me realise it is time we all spoke and did something about autism prevalence. “

Autism Research Group - ARG
With a vision to alleviate the suffering of Autistic Spectrum Disorders (ASD) children and their families in Oman, a small research group started its work to lead research activities concerned with ASD. The basic objective was to study the prevalence of ASD in Oman and to establish a national registry of all cases.
1.4 cases per 10,000
Oman has an approximate population of 3.5 million, 42.7 percent of which is below the age of 15. (Annual Health Report, 2008). In a nutshell the result of the study, (which is still ongoing) was that prevalence of ASD in Oman is unknown. A cross sectional study was conducted from June 2009 to December 2009 to estimate the prevalence of ASD among 0-14 year old children. A total of 113 cases of ASD were enumerated nationwide, indicating an overall prevalence of 1.4 cases per 10,000 children aged 0-14 years. Most prevalent cases were amongst boys (75 percent and among low income families. The report concluded that the low prevalence in ASD in Oman is due to under diagnosis and under reporting.
The ARG team study resulted in a very low estimate, relative to other countries, and is believed to be under representative of the actual ASD prevalence due to omission of many cases as a consequence of under diagnosis and under reporting.
ASD increasing worldwide
Worldwide, the prevalence if ASD has been growing in numbers, a dramatic rise, probably attributed to rise in awareness of ASD through media etc. But, there is no similar increase in research on autism and other child psychiatry topics in this part of the world. ASD is not a frequent subject of research in the Middle East.
In developed countries, the overall prevalence for all forms of ASD was estimated to be 60 cases per 10,000 children. A recent study carried out in Saudi Arabia, which borders Oman, revealed an overall prevalence of 18 cases of autism per 10,000 children.
Dr Yahya points out a recent research done in Oman in 2009, where the results showed that 17 percent of the high school/adolescent children reported some form of depression! The internationally accepted indicator for this is 15 percent. But, when it came to ASD cases, the registry was quite low.
Just one child psychiatry unit in Oman
“Our research used clinical information about cases from medical records from the only child psychiatry clinic in Oman, which is at the SQUH, whose database was the sole source of records for formally diagnosed ASD cases in the study’s target population. As the entire nation is serviced by a single psychiatry unit located in the capital, a majority of the population may find it logistically or financially challenging to reach the clinic for diagnosis or treatment. Others living in regions adjacent to international borders may have been using the services available in the neighbouring countries,” Dr Yahya said.
Look beyond the current illness
He noted that their findings highlighted the need for more diagnostic facilities and establishment of record-based surveillance of abnormal behaviours in public schools. “The primary health care doctors should be trained to note the symptoms. It is the first gate to discovery. If we can create a system to include the primary health GPs to have a checklist at the first point, we can have data of ASD cases. Normally the symptoms for such cases are present from 18 months onwards. During vaccination visits, these tests can be done. A GP should look beyond the current illness of the child brought to his clinic. Anaemia, malnutrition, the other developmental milestones can be checked out,” Dr Yahya said.
Every single day counts
“Every single day gone without diagnosis is detrimental to the child. Every single day counts. Early detection and early intervention can save your child from total retardation. But, the human brain is very complex. Just to cite an example let me tell you this… the stars on the sky is more in number than the sand grains on the beach… and the brain cells are more than the stars on the sky.
So, till date no one can pin point one reason to the cause of ASD. It has many reasons attributed to it. Genetics, environmental factors, an infection during pregnancy, a sick mother, many reasons... But, we have no say at all on these factors. What we can humbly do is make a system that will help in early diagnosis,” he added.
Don’t waste time
“Let us not waste time, let us speak for autism, about autism and create the much-needed awareness for autism in Oman,” Dr Yahya concluded.
(Autism research group is a research group formulated at the SQU in order to lead research activities concerned with autistic spectrum disorders. It is made up of a group of academicians and professionals who share common interest in ASD research. Founding members: Dr Marwan Al Sharbati, MD, associate professor of child psychiatry, SQU, Dr Yahya Al Farsi, MD MPH, DSC, assistant professor of Epidemiology and Public Health and Dr Mostafa Waly, MPH, PhD, assistant professor of nutrition, SQU.)
By adarsh Madhavan, Priya Arunkumar, Najib Al balushi

laban, guruz al gamar and the villagers of Sahami

A tale of laban, guruz al gamar and the villagers of Sahami
Feb 1 2010 B and W

Some 240 kms away from the bustling city of Muscat, a 40-plus-year old Omani woman is sitting on the ground, in the village of Sahami (in Saham) and gently shaking a dark sack-like bag mounted on some sticks.
A soft Arabic song escapes Dhahiwa Hamad’s lips as she rocks the bag. At a distance you would think she was singing a lullaby and gently rocking a baby to sleep. A closer look will actually reveal her shaking a traditional Omani sheepskin bag. As you sit silently on her side and watch, you will find her shaking the bag with increasing tempo.

Dhahiwa is a resident of Sahami. Modernity has, of course, crept into the lives of the villagers in Sahami, but Dhahiwa prefers to sit on the side of tradition. Every single day, Dhahiwa, like many women in Sahami, would be engaged in this traditional method of making laban. This cold, refreshing laban is part of the daily diet of almost all Sahami residents.

In Oman, when we may go chasing after the expected, we may often bump into the unexpected. The unusual, unexpected, the extraordinary is always waiting around the corner…waiting to be discovered.
So, the other day, when we went chasing after an enthusiastic young Omani from Saham who said he knew people who made laban every day, we stumbled on to a mini-traditional Omani set up, apparently arranged for our benefit. Our mission was to find out how some families made laban in their homes, instead, we were given everything we wanted to know about laban and MORE (all the other things that went along with it).
So, it was not just about laban. If they made, drank and relished laban, the Omanis in Sahami detailed to us how there were more things to laban and how other food; how their travel in Oman was all related. So, in short, they linked the laban with food, with families, with travelling (across the desert and from village to village on camels under a sweltering sky) were all interlinked and how laban played a role in this mix.
This mini village, in Sahami, gave us a glimpse of a unique slice of Omani life that blended with culture and tradition and also gave us an idea of how Omanis (as well as Arabs) have been facing the harsh desert-like elements for millennia.
The setting was replete with Omani men making Omani bread in the most traditional manner possible (on aluminum sheets from a fire on the ground); Omani women in traditional garb making various camel wear accessories, children flitting around the scene with their pet dogs, Omani men and women engaged in various other daily work, camels decked in finery, displays of colourful camel gear in a small makeshift tent…
And amidst all of them was a cheerful Dhahiwa(who incidentally is a school bus driver) making laban in the midst of nowhere.
Dhahiwa broke away from her intense shaking to give us an idea into her life and how laban was an integral part of their existence. Newfangled methods of making laban were introduced (which included churning milk in a small ‘laban-only’ washing machine). “There are other methods now, but I prefer the traditional method,” Dhahiwa said, vigorously shaking her sheepskin bag. Her cows have been providing a good supply of milk. Laban and milk has therefore become their staple diet.
Going with tradition, she ferments the milk, and once it curdles, she puts into the sheepskin bag to churn the butter out, leaving the buttermilk (laban) behind.
Laban a must
“Originally laban or buttermilk is the liquid left behind after churning butter out of cream.I grew up drinking laban and I learnt how to make it from my mother. For an Omani, especially from our region, laban and guruz al gamar (handmade flat bread) are two items, we cannot live without. It is a tradition we grew up with, especially when we travel. When you grow with certain traditions, you pass it on,” Dhahiwa said. The younger generations are now following the same tradition. “Buttermilk is a term that was originally used for the leftover liquid after churning butter out from the milk cream. It also refers to various fermented drinks of milk that are more a part of the warmer climates than the cold regions.
There are many uses and benefits of the buttermilk. Buttermilk is low fat and rich with calcium, protein and carbohydrates. The cultured buttermilk is very low in fat and calories. Many traditional recipes like pancakes and cakes are incomplete without buttermilk,” Dhahiwa said.


Buttermilk recipe
She then gave us an on-the-spot lesson on how to make butter and buttermilk: “I am about to reveal to you an ancient and traditional butter making secret from milk and curds; to make butter it requires nearly non-stop shaking and more. But, the end result is butter and buttermilk. Homemade butter can be fun to make (if you are a butter enthusiast).And cleaning up is very easy as you only need a few things.
You need to shake the cream until the butter starts to form. Once you notice those little yellow globules forming, shake some more until they start to congeal together.
Next, pour the laban out in to a pot, pour cold water in to bring out butter embedded in the sheepskin. You can scoop out the butter into a bowl of ice water and squeeze/mash. This is necessary to wash the remaining buttermilk out of the butter. Otherwise, the butter will spoil very quickly.
You can either keep it in the refrigerator (make sure you use it within a week or add salt to make it last a little longer) or freeze it and thaw it out when you need it.

“It is easy to churn butter out and make laban the traditional way, we still follow it. Milk is a staple diet and because of the warm climate laban soothes the heat down. Every day after the milk is used for daily consumption, we ferment it to make curds. The curds are then churned by shaking in the sheepskin (saqah) and laban ideal for drinking is made. We use the butter for other dishes. Most of our womenfolk make laban and butter this way and for the younger generation it is fun watching us do it. I don’t believe it is hard or crude, it is a way our ancestors lived and these traditional ways kept them healthy and sane.”

Traditions don’t fade away
Memories fade, but traditions won’t fade away, unless you are dying yourself, says Dhahiwa. “It is our duty to hold on to our traditions and pass it on to the younger generation. Modernity is not to destroy tradition, it is for easy living. Our youth go away to the cities, but, they still come back home during the weekends.
Our family is a prime example: we are four brothers and families living together. We are closely knitted by our traditions. We have camels, donkeys and even dogs with us…”

Bread over fire
While Dhahiwa was detailing the finer points of laban to us, Said Hamad Al Ba’adi, who many in the group said was almost 100 years (but he looked only late 70s or early 80s), was busy making a fire. As we watched him, he placed some aluminum sheets on the fire. From an earthen pot, he took a thick white wheat bread mix and then plastered the same on the sheets.

Because of the mystery behind his age, Said Hamad is quite revered within their lot and although he seemed to suffer from partial blindness, he squinted away to making some tasty coal-flamed Omani bread.


Guruz Al Gamar and laban
The link between Guruz Al Gamar (the Omani bread) and laban was that they both complemented each other. The other Omanis present there explained their passion for holding on to such traditions and said that Said Hamad was the best example of those who linked themselves with the past without falling to the temptations of modernity. “We believe in our traditions. Like Said Hamad, who is an expert at making the Guruz Al Gamar, there are others too.”
There are different types of bread, thick, thin and in different shapes and sizes. The beauty of the Guruz was that it can be made literally from the elements, sans cooking utensils.
“The thick bread is put over the fire, actually hot coal and cooked; this method of cooking gives a grilling effect to Omani bread which can be kept without being spoilt for many days. We use some butter taken out of the laban too. The thick variety has more life compared to the thin variety. The bread making skills are imparted to a number of women and men in family, some of them today are engaged in bread-making, making a living out of it,” Said Hamad said.
Guruz is mostly made while travelling; the kneaded wheat dough is taken along with fresh laban in a pot of sheepskin, some dried fish during travel. Since many years this has been the tradition. The thick variety of Omani bread can be preserved for nearly a month, if required, but it is mostly made fresh and hot and consumed immediately. Ideal combination is the Guruz, dried fish and laban.

By Adarsh madhavan and Priya Arunkumar, photos Najib Al balushi

Feroun, the king bull

Feroun – King Bull
Four ceiling fans whir in a large shed at a sprawling farm in Hambar, Sohar.
Beneath it, its thick tail flapping away scores of flies, a massive and ferocious critter looks into the distance beyond his enclosure, ruminating about the past and perhaps the evolving future.
This brooding, mean-looking, nearly 600kgs raging bull, which could easily stand at a height of over six feet (hump tip from the ground), was probably mulling over his past victories and pondering over the various strategies he would have to employ in his next fight.s
This is Feroun – the king of bulls in Oman, and some say, in the whole of Gulf and the Middle East. This mammoth five-year old dad-of-all-bulls is a champion of champions. He has won all 27 times he has locked horns with his opponents, some of whom he made mincemeat, gored or even killed. Not intentionally, but in the heat of an intense fight, Feroun who has no idea his own supreme strength can unwittingly down his opponent for good.
Today, this undisputed champion bull is worth over 90,000 rials (the current owner bought him for nearly 45,000 rials) and if he is going to win his next fight, he will be worth more.
But Abdullah Ali Shizawi, who had bought Feroun (meaning Pharaoh) for a whopping 45,000 rials at a bull market in Fujairah, is not selling him, even if someone is going to triple the amount. “He is not for sale – he is for fighting (sic)!” he tells Black & White at his Hambar bull farm, hosts to nearly 20 other bulls, even another mammoth, but not as fierce as Feroun, bull.
The B&W team was checking out some bulls in Seeb when one of the Seeb-based bull owners made a passing reference about a ‘king’ bull in Sohar, who apparently was jealously guarded and religiously looked after by his owner. Learning this, the B&W team swung to Sohar the next morning in pursuit of this mammoth bull.
After hours of search, we finally tracked him down in Hambar at the sprawling farm of Albdullah Shizawi, a veteran bull fighter owner. Peering over the tall doors of one of the farm sheds there, we saw a gargantuan black creature, its face away from us, staring somewhere stolidly. Scores of small flies swarmed the mammoth bull as he angrily shook them away with his tail and his head. As we stared at him, he suddenly swung his head back and then his steely gaze froze us in our path. Even mean bulls would think twice to lock their horns with this gigantic bull. So, would mere mortals like us dare? We treaded softly at the inside edge of the shed and waited for Abdullah to get us formally introduced to him.
“Hello Feroun, meet the team from Black & White,” said one of the friends of Abdullah and the creature stared back at us, daring us to go near him. We hesitated because even Abdullah showed reluctance to casually walk up to him and pat him. Everyone sneaked behind, to his posterior end and delicately patted him as he diligently cud chewed his deep and somber thoughts away, facing away from us.
Feroun is a naturalised Omani bull. But, his Spanish-Pakistani origin is perhaps reflected in his fierceness. If the setting was different, he would have been easily goring down a matador in some Spanish coliseum. He is as mean as he looks and he also has a diet that suits a champion. The daily feed for this prizefighting bull includes an ultra rich diet of dried fish, hay, honey, cereals and grains costing Abdullah around 450 rials a month.

Raising bulls
What was his passion for bulls, we probed, but Abdullah was non committal with his replies. He loves bulls and he has been with bulls as longs as he could remember. “Raising bulls has been part of our tradition since the early 1980’s. Today, it is our fulltime profession,” Abdullah said, his hand sweeping across his large farm, where his helpers run around preparing food for the bulls, maintaining them, washing, cleaning…
Although he was doing reasonably well with his other bulls, the entry of Feroun into his farm was a major turning point. “After that I have not looked back, Feroun is a bull owner’s delight – he has won 27 times! He is a champion,” Abdullah tells B&W, his eyes lighting up and his tight lips spreading into a smile. Even mealy-mouthed Abdullah becomes garrulous when he speaks of his prizefighting (*) bull.
“I have 20 other bulls and I spend over 2000 rials on their food alone, so it is not an easy task maintaining them. But, this is my passion, my culture, my tradition, my life…”
According to Abdullah, the bulls of Sohar are by far the best in Oman. Although the lineage of some could be Spanish-Pakistani, they have grown up in Oman and passionate bull fight owners are bringing in a brand new breed of prizefighting bulls, who can lock horns with any bull in the country and even in the region.

The Machine Gun
Back in Seeb, we met up with Rashash, another winner of many a fight. Rashash is owned by Marhoon Khamis Al Hadidi, who has a small bull farm where half a dozen bulls rub shoulders with cocks, hens, dogs and the like.
There was a little pyre (to ward off the flies) lit close to the bulls and in that smoke swathed ambience, we tried to strike a chord with the bulls and their owner. All of these bulls had a mean look about them, but they were friendlier than Feroun and his gang of rowdy bulls.
But the nearly 300kgs Dhofari-bred Rashash, like his name (it means machine gun) is also a mean fighting machine. He has already notched up couple of wins and Marhoon is hoping that his bull’s winning streak continues.
“Rashash is now my ticket to fame. He is much more powerful than he looks and he can withstand lot of pressure,” Marhoon said, caressing his large bull on the neck. Rashash was much easier to approach than Feroun. But, he did not seem to like us that much.

Bull fighting a tradition
Marhoon began his life with bulls when he was just 10. It is a family tradition, and his father, grand father and forefathers have been rearing bulls and pitting them against other bulls.
“In the earlier days we used bulls to draw water from wells. Now we use them for leisure. Bull fighting is part of the Omani tradition and culture and my ancestors indulged in it too. I am in to bull fighting for the last 20 years and I believe this trend would continue in our family forever.
“I buy a calf and grow it up, groom and train it for fighting. It is a long process and we do not do it for economical gains. A calf is pitted against a fighter bull and trained to fight, defend and attack. We do not gamble with bulls. It is pure leisure. Once a bull wins, he can be sold at a very high price. It is a matter of great pride for the owner of a winner bull.
Bull fighting is a tradition; it is a passion by itself. Every alternate week we have one fight.”

It’s a bull’s life
Marhoon’s winning bull also needs proper maintenance. “For the fighter bulls, every aspect from food to the accessories that he wears is taken care of. We feed him a rich and heavy diet, which is a mix of hay, grass, grains, ghee, eggs, dried fish, honey and dates.
He gains his energy and strength from this diet.” But, it is not just a staple diet that makes him fighting fit. He is given an oil massage, and also a good scrub plus a hot saltwater sponge to prevent muscle tear during major fights.
“That will ensure tightness and strength on his muscles. A bull needs to withstand equal, if not more, strength of another bull. The winner stands strong, while the defeated ones mostly run away.”

Diet fit for a winner
“Two days before the fight, we start feeding the bull, fresh green hay with water. The heavy diet is discontinued. This will help the bull feel light in the arena. Then we take the bull to the beach, to the sea and give him a good run, exercise and even a swim. The bull needs to be energised and physically fit. We cannot and we will not compromise on that aspect. So only a serious enthusiast can remain in this field. Though it is for leisure, it requires serious involvement. After the fight, the bull will be tired for a day or two, and then he will be back to normal. In another 14 days, he is ready for his next fight.”

Expensive affair
The question of how these bull owners make money is shrouded in mystery. Because rearing and maintaining a fighting bull is an expensive affair. A normal calf alone costs approximately 300 to 400rials. A prize winning bull can be sold off at 4000rials. “It is a big market and most of us are in to by family tradition. There are many Omani families who rear bulls and are in to bull fighting for years, especially from the regions of Seeb, Barka, Bu Ali, Suwaiq, Sohar etc. My Rashash is the Seeb region champion,” Marhoon noted.
Besides the bull fights, there also annual bull festivals where the owners get a chance to display their prizefighters, exchange notes, and generally buy and sell bulls too.

Wusha, Al Harf, Guarantee
Marhoon takes equal pride in his other three bulls, which he is readying for fights. “These four year olds are of good stock. Guarantee is a pure Omani breed. I have a pure bred Australian bull too. I also have other birds, pigeons, cocks and hens at my farm.”

Bull whisperer
Communication with the bulls is not an easy task. They don’t easily listen to orders, nor are they easily swayed by fear tactics. “We have a mike through which we communicate to our bulls on field. But they do not get attached or understand words. We prompt them through various sound patterns, including loud Arabic commands.”
Most of the bulls respond to these guttural commands.

Hornless bulls are useless
Horns are sharpened and they serve as weapons for the fighting bulls. Once they lose it, the bulls become useless, and then they are sent to the abattoir. “We take great care to maintain their horns, decorate and also sharpen them, Marhoon says. But sharpen these horns at your own risk. For sometimes, the owners and the helpers get hurt too. Marhoon remembers how he was accidently gored by one of the bulls and displays a mean scar on the side of his abdomen. Although the bulls start young, they have good staying power. “The bulls can fight for many years and have a lifespan of 30 to 40 years. The bull starts fighting when they are just four, but continue for a long period of time.”


By Adarsh madhavan, Priya Arunkumar, Najib Al balushi

Who is the killer on the road?

Don’t save the brake pad!
Who is the killer on the road?
Don’t look surprised…the answer is: you. You, the man behind the wheel. Yes, you, the man in the mirror…you are the cause of the road accidents in Oman (if the below description fits you, that is).
Yes, you and your don’t care attitude has killed many, maimed plenty and is going to kill and maim more.
This stubborn, devil-may-care attitude and arrogance of yours has left many a disabled. Even in the vast, empty deserts of Oman, one cannot escape an accident. A recent tale (however tall it may sound) is that two cars plundered into each other on a vast desertscape because either of the driver would not veer off their track and give way for the other!
At the other end, sources hint on a research done long ago, which found out that some drivers on the road actually avoid braking because it cost them money (replacing worn out brake pads). In short, they are willing to save their brake pad at the cost of innocent lives on the road…

Well, this is no longer a joke and we have reached breaking point in trying to escape and avoid the daily hazards on the road, which are mounting. So, let us stop blaming others, the authorities concerned and the roads and focus on changing ourselves, our attitude(s).

For, attitude is found to be the main cause of accidents, especially among the young drivers. Black & White has identified eight drivers: eight mistakes! These eight drivers have one victim: The simple, innocent and responsible driver! We have minutely fleshed the eight characters down below. But, not to poke fun at them, only to first expose them and then plead with them to stop behaving thus. And if you find some resemblance in these drivers and you, then, time to change…time to change the man staring back at you in the mirror…


1. Show off
He has a typical ‘king-on-the-road-devil-may-care’ attitude. He cannot control the urge to show off his driving skills, especially to the fairer sex!
He has only one small car, his own. But, he has a giant-sized ego that will not let him accept the fact that there are better cars on the road. He will not sit down and take it if a car overtakes him or makes him bite their dust. He needs to teach them a lesson and he will do it, even if it is going to cost his life. Insecure and a cross with an inflated ego and deflated complex, therefore needing a driving outlet for his pent-up emotions!

2. Selfish
It is all about him. His time, his car, his destination, his road(s)! He is brimming with impatience and thinks that he is the only busy man on the road. He needs to overtake, speed and reach his destination before anyone else. He jumps queues, but will not permit anyone else. He will block them all. He is good at signals, especially flashing lights from behind! Tailgating is his other past time! It is only ‘me-me-me’ on the road. Even his horn sounds like that!

3. Stupid
He is not stupid, stupid. He is actually Mr Know-It-All on the road. But, unfortunately, he makes wrong calculations and has no common sense. He thinks he can pass the signal in green, but his judgment is not as accurate as the speed in which the signal turns red, so well, he screeches to a halt but not before others hit him or his tyres burst! He is the one who keeps jumping signals.

4. Shallow
His driving knowledge and skills are as superficial as his desire to drive. How did he get his license? By fluke or by crook or by luck! He is a good driver when everything is okay, but at the smallest hint of a challenge, he is exposed; he breaks down; causes commotion and hits! He drives because everyone else does and yes, he needs that job!

5. Silly
His car is a little toy that he has not grown out of; it is his tent, full with camping gear; it is his second home and it is more of a living-cum-dining room than a vehicle on the road. He eats, drinks, listens to music (from a blasting i-pod) and speaks at will on his slippery mobile, which keeps slipping off like a live fish. At times, he is more agile and acrobatic than a circus clown, balancing a soft drink on one hand, a sandwich on the other, at the same steering his vehicle in a busy street. He is more focussed on what goes inside his car, than the busy traffic outside.

6. Stingy
He is penny wise and pound foolish. He thinks he saves money when he buys secondhand tyres or refuses to change his brake pads. Well, who cares? Who is going to check if his car is serviced or not? He would rather save his money and rather waste other people’s time and money! All he needs is to be mobile always, so don’t fix it and forget it!

7. Sizzler
Yes, he literally sizzles on the road, dancing to the tunes of his raging hormones. He is the hyper ping pong ball type, zipping from point A to B for no rhyme or reason… he has got his driving license only yesterday and he is bubbling over with enthu. He has to be here, there and everywhere. Why do you get a driving license? To store it in a cupboard and to park your car in your garage? Get a life, brother!

8. Stuck
To be or not to be… should I or should I not? Flyover or the roundabout? Left or right? Hit or not to hit! To turn or not to turn? To brake or not to brake… God help us for he should not be driving at all! He is driving challenged, and his uncertainty is killing…

Do any of the portraits resemble you? Is there one negative trait listed above that is akin to your own?
If so, you are the one who is preying on the ninth type of driver on the road:

9. The victim
He is the responsible, safe driver, the one who cares for his family, himself and follows the road rules and is organized. But he has no control over the other eight dominant types! So, he always ends up being the victim!
So, as part of this New Year, let this become our resolution. Let us take a pledge, today, now to STOP being a SHOW OFF, SELFISH, STUPID, SHALLOW, SILLY, STINGY, STUCK, SIZZLER driver! Let us act on it! Let us apply the brakes on such killer attitudes and let us drive safe in this 2010 and beyond. Let us reduce the death and accident rate on the Oman roads and so mark it on your calendar; start today, instead of tomorrow. Let us dedicate at least one day in a week to stop making these eight (or more) violations. Let us not be a killer or a victim, let us, by changing ourselves, bring about a safe and accident-free Oman! Let us!


By Adarsh Madhavan, Priya Arunkumar, Najib al balushi

BW exclusive Nov 15 2009: Qantab fishing tale

‘Mike Tyson’. But the genial giant that stood like a rock on a motorboat that took us off the beach area of one of Muscat’s fishing villages, recently, only resembled him.
Otherwise, his serene demeanour and the polite words he shared with us were like pearl drops, which he occasionally let loose along with the sea spray that hit us as we headed straight into the sea.
A spotless white seagull was leading us, and often, our motorboat threatened to overtake it and head on its own.
The three of us, inexperienced boat people, hung on for dear life as the motorboat scudded on the semi-rough sea surface.
‘Tyson ‘(nee Dharwish Mohammed Mughaini) and his sea accomplice, a young Omani boy, were taking us on a simple trip down the usual tourist sea lane, which covered Qantab, Bhandar Khiran and other coves, past the Shangri-La hotel and towards some fishing cages that were sunk some 30 metres deep to trap the fish in it.
But, we (the Black & White team) were not planning to discover the wonders of the ocean below, nor were we keen to dive down to fetch the cages, for tucked in many parts of the beach of the Qantab fishing village, from where we got on this boat, was a story that was worthier than the wonders below.

* ** ** *

Now, the history that is in the making on the beachside of the traditional Qantab fishing village, which features the ‘Jewel of Muscat’, a ninth century sewn-plank ship, is a tale that has been told by many.

But, the history that has been in play on the sands of the centuries old shore of this quaint fishing village, which hosts many Omani tribes including Al Wahibis, Al Qasmis, Al Rahbis, Al Mughainy’s, Al Hasanis, Al A’hsanis (Al’Ahsanis), Al Hadis, has hitherto been untold.
Time now to unveil this simple story of the fishermen whose stirring passion for fishing has been undimmed by the modernity that has swept Oman.

For Muscat residents, Qantab cannot be classified as an interior area (even Seeb, which is some 40-odd kms is not said to be in the interior). Yet, the sweep of modernity has hardly touched this area, not in terms of the physical structures, but in the minds and hearts of the fishermen living here, young or old.

The unusual factor of the men of this village is that whether they happen to be the village chieftain, the senior government official, or, the government employed Omani youth or the young kids playing on the beach – all, without exaggeration share an unusual love for the sea. Unusual, because it is beyond comprehension for those who have fallen to the temptations of modernity and have moved away from the traditions and culture of Oman.

The average Omani kid or youth may have a passion for Omani football, especially since the Omani football team are the reigning kings in the region after their Gulf Cup victory. But, nothing – nothing – can stir the firm love of the fisherfolk for the sea and all the creatures within it.

The Qantab fishermen are in love with the sea, with their boats, the uncountable fish that fill the sea before their homes and the sun, the sand and well, their khawas…

It is this tale of love that has to be told and to be recorded in posterity, but the Omani fishermen’s love for fishing has to be experienced to be believed. The truth is that nothing sways them away from the sea. Fast cars, swank homes, fat salaries, influential jobs, the unbelievable temptations of modernity simply strike this Gibraltar-like-resolve of these fishermen and fall back. Fishing is one of the foremost traditional livelihoods of these fishermen, and they have kept it that way even today. It is not ‘timepass’, nor, is it a luxurious pursuit like game fishing. For many in Qantab fishing village, a day without fishing was an empty one.

And the beauty is that the numbers of the fishermen in this little bay are growing. “Five years ago, we had around 40 to 50 fishermen, today, there are more than 100 and it is growing. Every man of this village, regardless of his other profession is a fisherman at heart,” Sheikh Said Zahar bin Saud Al’Ashani, the sheikh of Qantab fishing village tells Black & White, squatting himself comfortably on the sands.
The sheikh is on his boat at the crack of dawn and after fishing, and a little afternoon siesta, he heads back to the beach where he confers with other senior fishermen in his favourite corner on the beach.

Language is a barrier, but his face reveals a hundred fishing tales, which he might have regaled to the young and old fishermen there. In Arabic, he tried to describe to our Omani lensman the unmitigated passion for fishing that the whole of the menfolk of this village had. “Fishing is a passion; it is our first profession, our job, our lives – our everything!” Sheikh Said Al’Ashani tells us.

“Let them hold big job positions outside this village, but when they come back to the village, they are on the boat, along with the others, fishing, or when they are back on the beach, helping pull the boat back into the shore, helping with the net…fishing is in our heart and no one can take it away.
“Today’s younger generation goes to school, get employed, but neither modernity, nor development has wooed them away from the shore of Qantab.”

We ask him when he began fishing and he looks at the sea, then to couple of six or seven year olds playing on the beach. He points to them: “Around that age. Maybe younger. I don’t remember. It must have been some 50 to 60 years back.” We don’t ask his age, but let him continue.

He stares again at the sea as he reminisces of an age past: “We had strong wooden boats then and there were fishes galore; we used to catch them by hooks and homespun nets. We also used cages made of palm tree leaves for trapping the fishes.”

In the early days, fishing was down to traditional methods. There were no contraptions to help direct their boats in the sea. But, they had the stars shining in the night and the dark hues of the mountains in the backdrop, tools they used to navigate their boats to the sea and back. A traditional method that they adopt even today. One of the fishermen who took us by boat to the sea guided us to some sunken traps with the help of the mountains in the distance.

“We used to go at the crack of dawn and we would remain there in the sea, waiting for a big catch. Sometimes, it took us three to four days to return. But, times have definitely changed,” he said, looking at our recorders, the camera, our mobile phones.

Did they ever fear the sea? Sheikh Said looked at us quizzically as our photographer struggled to put forward the query again. Fear? What was that? “Why would we fear the sea,” he asked us. “We never had any fear in going to the deep sea areas. The sea is our haven, our protector.”

But, some elements of modernity have washed into this shore, and everyone has welcomed that. Today, they have imported nets from Japan, modern winches to drag the boats in etc. “Now we use iron cages instead of palm tree ones, which are thrown down for two to three days and then pulled up.
“We have modern motorboats, big freezers to store the fishes that are caught, navigation tools like GPS, safety gadgets, umbrellas etc.
Moreover, the gear used, the accessories and even the methods of fishing have improved over the years. This has also helped more youngsters getting in to the trade,” Sheikh Said said.

Fishing, without a doubt, is a family tradition too here. The village chieftain’s six children are into fishing. And that is the reigning trend here. “Fishing has fed us and our families for years now and I believe the trade will not die. We get good help from the authorities too. In many ways, we are blessed!”

On the first day, we were taken on a boat to get a feel of the sea by Saleh Mohammed Suleiman, who works in Salalah. He had come back to Qantab during his leave and the first thing he did upon landing there: fishing. “A day without fishing is an empty one,” this darkly handsome young man tells us. He doesn’t recall the day he went fishing for the first time. But, he knows that the moment he opened his eyes, he had been seeing the sea, the fish, the boats and the men going fishing.
“Fishing is not a time pass for us. It is our livelihood. Yes, times have changed, I am employed full time in another sector, but we still need to make that little extra to run our families.”
Sometimes, they make a little more than an extra, he says noting how some catches could haul in bushels of money (around RO300-350). “Other days, it can be just RO50 and under.
“But we are happy. Fishing is our trade and it is very fulfilling. It is a full time profession. The sea is everything for us. For tourists and visitors, the sea could be intriguing and fun, but for us it is our homes.”

What after fishing? Did they engage in other pursuits, football, or any other games? “Those who are in the beachside have no other pursuits. Fishing is our leisure pursuit, our hobby too. What is football? Fishing is my life!” Saleh Mohammed said. Fishing was also a binding factor as it kept him and youngsters like him close to their families. “Ours is a small fishing village and our families are all connected by this trade. My wife is happy that I don’t hit the town spots. She feels more reassured when I am at sea.”

One of the key examples of the employed youth at the village who still come back to fishing is that of
Dharwish Mohammed Mughaini. He is a coastguard employee. But, given a choice, he will get back to the village and engage in fishing. “Yes, fishing, anytime,” he says when asked what he would do if he was given a job choice. “I love to fish. My brother and I started at a very young age; but, I don’t remember the year.
“The sea has been my school of learning. The motor boats are expensive, but, it is very useful. Even though many youngsters are opting for fishing, the sea has plenty to offer us all. We don’t fear that there will be a dearth of fishes. The nature will provide for us all. We used to go with the elders at 7pm and return back early morning 4am with our catch. That is our routine. I think even if I had become a doctor, I would go fishing…”

By Adarsh Madhavan, Priya Arunkumar, Najib Al Balushi
copyright © Black and White

BW Exclusive Nov 1 2009: Robot Jockeys in camel race

No more human jockeys
A camel race in Sohar has, for the first time, featured robots at the reins. History was created when robot jockeys – instead of human ones -- were introduced on the backs of the camels at the seventh annual local camel race (2009 to 2010) at the Sohar race track, recently.
A thingamajig on her back is smacking and spurring young Saraba onto the finish line. She surges ahead, her neck stretching forward and head rocking, froth flying high in the air and on her as she successfully pounds past the line before anyone else.
At the same time, Saraba’s owner in a dusty Land Cruiser wildly pulls up just after her, on the parallel track. Others follow, raising mighty dust. More camels clomp behind with the same contraption whirring and smacking on their backs like disabled miniature windmills gone cuckoo.
Even when they cross the finish line, the device tied to their back is seen whipping itself to frenzy (or was it desperation?). This was seen mostly on those camels that seem to have somehow fallen behind the others in the race; a sort of last ditch effort in the hope that the four-legged contestant would pip past the others at the finish line. It is not about the money alone, but winning any race brings along certain pride. For Omanis who have been literally brought up on a camel’s back, a camel race is a natural passion, if not at times, compulsive.
And for those Omanis whose first-ever sight has been a camel, races and such competitions as this seventh annual local camel race (2009 to 2010) in the wilayat of Sohar (camel race track), Batinah region, is part of a culture, which despite the infusion of technology and the sweep of modernity, still evokes a fervour that is more encompassing than the dust raised on the track.
But, there is something in the air this time. The race just run is no ordinary one. For you realise with a start that these camels have run the race sans jockey, at least a human one that is. As of September 30, Oman has taken that step to introduce a fresh dose of safety into the races: the thingamajig on the back is no ordinary contraption -- it is a RO500 (approximately) worth remote-controlled robot that has replaced the young Omani jockey. This is the first time that a robot jockey is being introduced into an official camel race in Oman: A step, which Oman is perhaps late in taking (when compared to the region), but better late than ever, the camel race enthusiasts gathered at the camel race festival organised by the Royal Court Affairs, represented by the Royal Cavalry, aver in unison.
But, amidst this hoopla on safety, the dust, raised by the camels and the many 4WDs, curl into a question mark: is something missing? Safety is the name of the game, but has the thrill gone out of the race? Are the long-honed skills of the young Omani jockeys going to be wasted?

Naif bin Hamood bin Hamad Al Mammari, deputy wali of Sohar, who is unable to take his eyes off the track, raises the same query and answers it himself: “Yes, such a thought does occur. Will the skills of our trained young Omani jockeys go waste? We have thought about it and the answer is, no, camel racing is in our blood. So, if not on the race track, the young jockeys will still race…it is our culture.”

Robot jockeys are new to Oman, but not to the region, which has introduced them nearly five years ago, facing criticism that small children, some as young as four, were being brought from poor Asian countries to race the camels. Introduction of robot jockeys in the region is seen as a panacea for what was seen as one of camel racing’s most objectionable practices. Racing camel owners in many Gulf countries traditionally used children as jockeys, some quite young, a practice that was condemned by human rights groups.
“The UAE and Qatar have been using robot jockeys since the last five years or so. Oman is the last one (to use them), I guess. Officially, we are introducing the robots at the Sohar racetrack. This is a step to bring about safety through technology and we feel it is time we safeguarded young jockeys and reduce the risks involved. A seven or 12kms race is physically draining and stressful for a young jockey.
Moreover, we care for the camels and we need to maintain lighter weights on their backs. With the robot jockeys, the risk of the young jockeys falling off the camels backs can be eliminated… They (the camels) race at a speed of approximately 50 to 60kms per hour, sometimes, even faster! So, we don’t want to lose our young ones on the tracks.
“The Omani Camel Race Federation and members of the camels committee in the wilayat are all aware of this move and they have welcomed the change. Government authorities, Royal Court Camel Affairs, and the Omani Camel Race Federation are funding and supporting this venture,” the deputy wali of Sohar said.

Sayyid Hilal bin Badr Al Busaidi, wali of Sohar, the chief guest at the race, made public that Oman had recognised and approved the use of robots at the reins of the camels. He said that the introduction of machine-mounted camels on the race track was the first step in safeguarding the ancient heritage of camel racing through modern technology. “Technology plays a vital role in all fields today. The introduction of robot Jockeys in our ancient heritage of camel racing is a safety requisite and a progress of the new and modern technological advance.
“Camel racing and the passion behind these races depict the love of camels of Omanis and the robot jockeys will be a lot safer and easier to race, especially for participating successfully in long distance camel racing like His Majesty’s Cup.”
“The robot jockeys are good and safe; deaths can be avoided on the race track,” opined Sheikh Hamad Nasser, a referee of four plus years, who was a referee at the Sohar camel race. “A human jockey brings in that traditional aspect, but with the new robots, life is going to swing to an entirely new safe mode.” He recalled some racetrack deaths in and around 1998. “I welcome this joint move of the Royal Court Camel Affairs, Oman Camel Race Federation and other related authorities.”

“I have been part of the federation and camel racing for nearly a decade now and I feel positive about this introduction,” adds Falah Al Mammari, a board member of the Omani Camel Race Federation.
“We need to safeguard our younger generation as well our resources. When the jockey is a young Omani boy, he needs to be trained, and paid a pretty high fee. If the camel he rides on wins, he has to be again paid a handsome amount. Since there are a lot of risks involved, the young jockey’s father needs to be paid an amount too.
This makes camel racing an expensive affair. With robot jockeys, many Omanis and camel owners can participate in an affordable and cost-effective manner. I don’t think our heritage will be lost; we are just playing it safe…”

Hamad Khamis Abdullah Al Omrani, a former jockey and currently a referee at the race, explained why camel racing, despite the admix of technology and tradition, would still ride steadily into the past: “The first thing that I saw when I was born was a camel. Camel racing is in my blood. It is not a passing passion; it is our heritage and culture. It is Omani. My father rode camels, my grandfather and my great grandfather also… so did my sisters.

“I was trained by my father to be a jockey at a very young age; now, my sons have been trained too… it is a way of life. Camel racing is our life. There is passion, involvement and contentment in it. The introduction of robot jockeys will not take anything away from the thrill of camel racing; instead, it will instill in a brand new safety aspect; it will make it lighter for the camel, as the robots are only around 1 to 2 kgs.
The robots will not stop our youth from racing a camel. Maybe not in a race like this…but, they will still race.”

Adarsh Madhavan, Priya Arunkumar and Najib Al Balushi